Alphabet Banner--Part II: Open Buttonhole Filler

For almost a year now I've worked on the alphabet banner for my son.  Not consistently, of course, but when I do watch out!!!  Unfortunately, at the rate I'm going Sebastian will be in high school by the time I finish.  Oh well... I'll save it for my grandkids!  Actually the banner is a pretty simple project.  My inspiration came from the various alphabet books and flash cards I use with my son.  Many of the letters were represented by simple objects or animals like elephants, owls, and cars.  Although I've never been one to attempt applique, the vivid imagery was too enticing to pass up.  I designed the letters freehand but the pictures were based on Ed Emberley's drawing techniques.  He uses simple shapes to create boldly graphic designs.  He has a series of "how to" drawing books that really takes the mystique out of drawing.

The sewing material I used were several old sweaters I recycled; however, you could use regular felted wool which is easier to work with because it's not as thick as recycled sweaters.  I used Aurifil wool thread to stitch my applique pieces and various other threads to embroider and embellish.  In a pervious post about this banner I included pictures of a couple of blocks I had completed but I didn't elaborate on the block embellishments.  Well, I wish to correct that mistake and talk about them now!

The problem with talking about embroidery stitches is, depending on what source material you use, one stitch may go by a multitude of different titles.  I never really thought about it before now because I normally don't think about the name of a stitch.  I based my use of certain stitches on their looks rather than what they were called and if I needed to locate a certain stitch, well again, I looked at the pictures of my embroidery books rather than rely on assigned names.  Titles only become a problem when you need to compile a list or try to explain how to do certain stitches.  This was the situation confronting me while trying to put this post together.  A prime example of this particular quandary is the open buttonhole filler stitch, a.k.a. the net stitch, a.k.a. the detached buttonhole stitch.  All three pretty much refer to the same thing, except the detached buttonhole is similar but very different from the other two; however, I chose it because it was the only representation I could find on the internet.  Here are some examples of this elusive stitch.

This is a detail of the "A for alligator" block.  I use the open buttonhole filler to simulate the animal's scales.  I used a no. 8 pearl cotton thread.

The example below is a close up of the "N for nectarine" block.  While I used the same stitch I had a completely different purpose.  I needed to add texture and color to an otherwise boring block.









Instructions for this stitch are available in two books:  Creative Stitching by Sue Spargo (open buttonhole), and Embroidery & Crazy Quilt Stitch Tool by Judith Baker Montano (net stitch).  If you're not interested in acquiring a book you could also look at Sharon B's Dictionary of Stitches website (detached buttonhole).

I particularly liked this stitch because once the anchor row is established the rest goes pretty quickly.  Little effort for a BIG effect!  It's funny because it has less to do with embroidery and feels more like crochet or something similar.  Of course there are other stitches represented through out each block but I think I'll save that for another day...

Happy stitching!!!!

Alabama Chanin Dress: Done at Last!

Good Morning Dear Readers,

I finally completed my Alabama Chanin inspired dress!

Although I'm posting this rather late the dress actually didn't take as long as I thought it would.  I wrote the first post in July and I finished the dress in September.  It truly was a labor of love and it was wonderful learning new skills, including stenciling and reverse applique.  I also discovered new appreciation for the control hand sewing affords; however, the best part was the dress fits like a dream!  Ms. Chanin sure does know how to draft a flattering dress pattern. 

I would like to thank my mother-in-law for the fabulous accessories (i.e. necklace and earrings).  I'll never wear this dress without them again!

Happy sewing everyone!

The T-Shirt Revitalized

Salutations!

I continue to revel in my recent new-found obsession with all things Alabama Chanin!  I was never one for working with knit fabrics but I'm REALLY enjoying the "little" projects I've undertaken thus far.  In fact I'm enjoying myself so much I decided to get the other two books in the Alabama Chanin series: Alabama Stitch Book and Alabama Studio Style, which were actually the first two books from the series.  Both (of course) are similar to Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, which was the first book I owned, but there are more projects centered around the home in my new books.  They even have recipes in them and some of them don't look half bad!

After reading the new books I had not realized that the company used to use old t-shirts as their main source for fabric.  So much so, that many of their designs were dictated by this resource.  By the time the last book was written (Sewing + Design) they seemed to completely move away from recycling t-shirts and only use fabric on bolts.  While I continue to work on my reverse applique dress (check out my post from July) I thought I would do a quick project to up-cycle one of my old t-shirts.  Here are some before and after pictures:

These are pictures of an old t-shirt I've kept for years commemorating the graduating class of 1997 from the Western College Program at Miami University.  My college years were very good times for me and I always loved the color and logo of this t-shirt.  But, after the 90s I never wanted to wear the shirt again because, while it might have been cute during the "Grunge era" it's not so stylish now. Unfortunately, these are very bad pictures because the shirt is actually purple, not maroon!  The logo below says, "if the world is night... shine my life like a light..."

The next two pictures are much better because they show the actual colors!  Here's what the shirt looked like after I was finished.  The pattern for the tank top came from Alabama Stitch Book.  The book explains how to deconstruct t-shirts to get the maximum amount of fabric possible and gives you step-by-step instructions on how to put the shirt together.  I sewed the entire shirt together by hand using Coats & Clark's Dual Duty Plus Craft & Button thread.  For my needle I used a standard embroidery needle I had laying around my sewing supplies.  The eye just needed to be big enough for the thread to fit properly.

This is a view of the front and below is a back view.

One of the best things about working with cotton jersey is that you don't have to finish your edges unless you want to.  Based on how the fabric is constructed it will not unravel!  Finishing some of the edges may be beneficial for some of the designs, especially if you want a more polished look.  For instance, I will probably finish the neck and armholes of the cotton jersey dress I'm still working on.  This shirt took about three days to finish and now I have my old t-shirt back ready to wear!!!!

What do you think?  Do you have old t-shirts that need new life?  Let us know we may be able to help out!

Quilt Extravaganza!

Good Morning!

It's August and that means it's quilt show time for those of us who live near Berea, KY!  Since moving to Lexington, three years ago, I've tried to attend the annual Quilt Extravaganza every year.  Whether with friends or alone the show is always worth seeing.  Not only does it give me an opportunity to see the kind of work local quilters appreciate, but it also gives me the chance to connect with artisans and art suppliers from my area.  Plus, local shows typically have a different type of vendor that you probably won't find at the really big shows like Cincinnati, Chicago, or Houston: the resident antique dealer.  Antique stores are a great source of quilting and sewing supplies but most don't specialize in this area.  Local shows attract dealers who focus on sewing notions and I try to stock up on buttons, unique bias tape, and other odds n' ends whenever I have a chance!

Contestants could enter quilts they made themselves or made by others.  It could also be a contemporary quilt or an antique.  Visitors were asked to select their favorite quilt from the show and which ever received the most votes won a cash prize.  Take a look at what I thought were some of the highlights from the show:

Interesting modern scrappy quilt.

This detail is of a modern Cathedral Windows
quilt.

I love the colors used in this modern quilt!  Just amazing!!!!

Wonderful example of Drunkards Path!  Can't remember if this was antique or modern.  It could be either!

Beautiful precision and another way to manipulate the block used for Drunkards Path. (antique)

Excellent example of color control.  I believe this was a more modern quilt.

This quilt is gorgeous in the picture but it was mind-boggling in person!!!!
(antique)

Is it just me or does this not look like an abstract painting.  Crazy quilts are
always inspirational! (antique)

Detail from crazy quilt of  hand embroidered flowers.

Very modern quilt with an applique embroidery combination.
I believe the figures were suppose be performing a rain dance.

Hawaiian style reverse applique quilt.  Very striking color
combination!

Traditional applique quilt with very fine detailed embroidery probably all done by hand!  This was an antique.

This modern quilt was pretty awesome not only because it was entirely made out of
double knit fabrics, but because it was made by a woman in her 90s completely by hand!!!!
I hope I can stay that limber!

Well, there you have it!  Did you visit the Berea quilt show this year and if so, what did you think? If you're ever in the area around the beginning of August make a point of visiting the Quilt  Extravaganza.  It's a lovely peek into local quilt flavor and make sure you stay to visit the town of Berea!  Coined as an artisan community, the town is overflowing with artistic charm.  It's well worth the visit!

Recipe for an Alabama Chanin Dress

Good Morning Everyone!

It's great to be back!  Hope you had a wonderful 4th of July and that all your summer days have been filled with warmth, happiness, and very sunny days!  I've been pretty busy with all those events that can take up one's time during the summer time... family functions, gatherings with friends, and preoccupying restless children; however, I have made time for my favorite occupation... SEWING!  So although I was away from the blog for a time I was still working away.

My latest project is truly a labor of love.  I recently discovered the couture clothing and DIY movement that is Alabama Chanin.  If you've never heard of the company it was started by costume designer Natalie Chanin, over ten years ago, based on sustainable principles.  From the materials and construction techniques to the employees, all have a fundamental purpose in creating endurance.  Ms. Chanin houses her company in a defunct t-shirt factory in Alabama and contracts local quilting artisans who used to work in the t-shirt industry.  To create one of her pieces it might take an employee eight weeks to complete because the entire outfit is constructed by hand!!!!  Not only does she sell ready made clothing, but she also encourages crafters to make their own clothing based on her designs.  Let me tell you,  it's a MUCH cheaper alternative than actually buying her clothing when one of her pieces can cost over $5, 000!!!!  I don't know about you but I'll take doing it myself any day...

After reading Ms. Chanin's book Alabama Studio Sewing + Design: A Guide to Hand-Sewing an Alabama Chanin Wardrobe, I decided to attempt the long fitted dress.  Seen in the picture below this is actually an example of how the couture line layers individual pieces to achieve an absolutely sumptuous  baroque look.

I am taking a less ambitious route but as you can see Alabama is a perfect marriage between sewing clothing and quilting.  How could I possibly pass this opportunity up?

In order to undertake such a project you must follow several steps and take your time, especially if you wish to do any applique or reverse applique.

Step 1: use 100% cotton jersey fabric.  Alabama Chanin uses 100% organic cotton jersey that you can purchase from their website.  I used Mood Fabrics.  Not only did they have a very large selection but their prices are very reasonable.

Step 2: use Coats and Clarks Craft & Button hand-sewing thread.  It comes in limited colors and although you can get it from Alabama you can also get it at Joanne Fabrics or Michael's for $1.99 per spool.

Step 3: gather your stenciling materials.  This is where things get tricky!  In order to do any applique, reverse applique, or embroidery you have to transfer your design onto your fabric and the only way to really do that is to create a really big stencil.  Alabama recommends making the stencil out of pennant felt (which is a stiff somewhat thick felt).  I suggest you spend the money and get the felt from Alabama.  It's about $17 yd and it will save you the headache of trying to find it elsewhere, which is pretty hard to do.  This is the stencil I created...

As you can see it is well used!  It may not look like it but this stencil is very large.  Almost the length of a full length dress.  In order to create this I downloaded a free pattern from Alabama (they are available on the website and in the book) and had it printed full size at a printing shop.  I used a spay adhesive to attach the pattern to the felt and then I began to cut away using a craft knife.  All I'll say is... it takes a minute...

Step 4: use fabric paint to transfer the pattern onto fabric.  Alabama suggests airbrushing or a squirt bottle.  I used Martha Stewart and next time I'm going to use a squirt bottle!  Martha is cute but completely impractical.  

Pictured above is Martha's spray paint kit.  It turns any one of her paints into spray paint.  Great idea but when the canister runs out there's no way to replace just the canister.  You have to buy the whole kit all over again!  Absolutely stupid!  However, I will say I like her range of colors and will continue to use them with a squirt bottle.  You can find Martha Stewart paints at Michael's.

here's what the stenciled fabric looks like once it's dry

Let the paint set for 24 hours or more then heat set the design with a press cloth soaked in white vinegar.  Make sure to use an iron for craft projects only and you may actually have to replace the lining for your ironing board.  Vinegar is really coercive!

Step 5: layer your fabric and begin to stitch.  I'm not going to get into it here but Ms. Chanin has an entire philosophy about sewing from how to thread your needle to how to make your knots!  She talks about it in her book or you can go to Creativebug. com and download her instructional video for a small fee.  It is worth it!  Once you've made your design decisions (applique, beading, embroidery, etc...)  here's what it might start to look like.

The images above are of the first panel to the four paneled fitted long dress.  I'm almost done with the first and I have three more to go.  Boy is it a lot of work but I can't tell you how much fun it is!!!!

Till next time!