Alabama Chanin Dress: Done at Last!

Good Morning Dear Readers,

I finally completed my Alabama Chanin inspired dress!

Although I'm posting this rather late the dress actually didn't take as long as I thought it would.  I wrote the first post in July and I finished the dress in September.  It truly was a labor of love and it was wonderful learning new skills, including stenciling and reverse applique.  I also discovered new appreciation for the control hand sewing affords; however, the best part was the dress fits like a dream!  Ms. Chanin sure does know how to draft a flattering dress pattern. 

I would like to thank my mother-in-law for the fabulous accessories (i.e. necklace and earrings).  I'll never wear this dress without them again!

Happy sewing everyone!

Quilt Extravaganza!

Good Morning!

It's August and that means it's quilt show time for those of us who live near Berea, KY!  Since moving to Lexington, three years ago, I've tried to attend the annual Quilt Extravaganza every year.  Whether with friends or alone the show is always worth seeing.  Not only does it give me an opportunity to see the kind of work local quilters appreciate, but it also gives me the chance to connect with artisans and art suppliers from my area.  Plus, local shows typically have a different type of vendor that you probably won't find at the really big shows like Cincinnati, Chicago, or Houston: the resident antique dealer.  Antique stores are a great source of quilting and sewing supplies but most don't specialize in this area.  Local shows attract dealers who focus on sewing notions and I try to stock up on buttons, unique bias tape, and other odds n' ends whenever I have a chance!

Contestants could enter quilts they made themselves or made by others.  It could also be a contemporary quilt or an antique.  Visitors were asked to select their favorite quilt from the show and which ever received the most votes won a cash prize.  Take a look at what I thought were some of the highlights from the show:

Interesting modern scrappy quilt.

This detail is of a modern Cathedral Windows
quilt.

I love the colors used in this modern quilt!  Just amazing!!!!

Wonderful example of Drunkards Path!  Can't remember if this was antique or modern.  It could be either!

Beautiful precision and another way to manipulate the block used for Drunkards Path. (antique)

Excellent example of color control.  I believe this was a more modern quilt.

This quilt is gorgeous in the picture but it was mind-boggling in person!!!!
(antique)

Is it just me or does this not look like an abstract painting.  Crazy quilts are
always inspirational! (antique)

Detail from crazy quilt of  hand embroidered flowers.

Very modern quilt with an applique embroidery combination.
I believe the figures were suppose be performing a rain dance.

Hawaiian style reverse applique quilt.  Very striking color
combination!

Traditional applique quilt with very fine detailed embroidery probably all done by hand!  This was an antique.

This modern quilt was pretty awesome not only because it was entirely made out of
double knit fabrics, but because it was made by a woman in her 90s completely by hand!!!!
I hope I can stay that limber!

Well, there you have it!  Did you visit the Berea quilt show this year and if so, what did you think? If you're ever in the area around the beginning of August make a point of visiting the Quilt  Extravaganza.  It's a lovely peek into local quilt flavor and make sure you stay to visit the town of Berea!  Coined as an artisan community, the town is overflowing with artistic charm.  It's well worth the visit!

Recipe for an Alabama Chanin Dress

Good Morning Everyone!

It's great to be back!  Hope you had a wonderful 4th of July and that all your summer days have been filled with warmth, happiness, and very sunny days!  I've been pretty busy with all those events that can take up one's time during the summer time... family functions, gatherings with friends, and preoccupying restless children; however, I have made time for my favorite occupation... SEWING!  So although I was away from the blog for a time I was still working away.

My latest project is truly a labor of love.  I recently discovered the couture clothing and DIY movement that is Alabama Chanin.  If you've never heard of the company it was started by costume designer Natalie Chanin, over ten years ago, based on sustainable principles.  From the materials and construction techniques to the employees, all have a fundamental purpose in creating endurance.  Ms. Chanin houses her company in a defunct t-shirt factory in Alabama and contracts local quilting artisans who used to work in the t-shirt industry.  To create one of her pieces it might take an employee eight weeks to complete because the entire outfit is constructed by hand!!!!  Not only does she sell ready made clothing, but she also encourages crafters to make their own clothing based on her designs.  Let me tell you,  it's a MUCH cheaper alternative than actually buying her clothing when one of her pieces can cost over $5, 000!!!!  I don't know about you but I'll take doing it myself any day...

After reading Ms. Chanin's book Alabama Studio Sewing + Design: A Guide to Hand-Sewing an Alabama Chanin Wardrobe, I decided to attempt the long fitted dress.  Seen in the picture below this is actually an example of how the couture line layers individual pieces to achieve an absolutely sumptuous  baroque look.

I am taking a less ambitious route but as you can see Alabama is a perfect marriage between sewing clothing and quilting.  How could I possibly pass this opportunity up?

In order to undertake such a project you must follow several steps and take your time, especially if you wish to do any applique or reverse applique.

Step 1: use 100% cotton jersey fabric.  Alabama Chanin uses 100% organic cotton jersey that you can purchase from their website.  I used Mood Fabrics.  Not only did they have a very large selection but their prices are very reasonable.

Step 2: use Coats and Clarks Craft & Button hand-sewing thread.  It comes in limited colors and although you can get it from Alabama you can also get it at Joanne Fabrics or Michael's for $1.99 per spool.

Step 3: gather your stenciling materials.  This is where things get tricky!  In order to do any applique, reverse applique, or embroidery you have to transfer your design onto your fabric and the only way to really do that is to create a really big stencil.  Alabama recommends making the stencil out of pennant felt (which is a stiff somewhat thick felt).  I suggest you spend the money and get the felt from Alabama.  It's about $17 yd and it will save you the headache of trying to find it elsewhere, which is pretty hard to do.  This is the stencil I created...

As you can see it is well used!  It may not look like it but this stencil is very large.  Almost the length of a full length dress.  In order to create this I downloaded a free pattern from Alabama (they are available on the website and in the book) and had it printed full size at a printing shop.  I used a spay adhesive to attach the pattern to the felt and then I began to cut away using a craft knife.  All I'll say is... it takes a minute...

Step 4: use fabric paint to transfer the pattern onto fabric.  Alabama suggests airbrushing or a squirt bottle.  I used Martha Stewart and next time I'm going to use a squirt bottle!  Martha is cute but completely impractical.  

Pictured above is Martha's spray paint kit.  It turns any one of her paints into spray paint.  Great idea but when the canister runs out there's no way to replace just the canister.  You have to buy the whole kit all over again!  Absolutely stupid!  However, I will say I like her range of colors and will continue to use them with a squirt bottle.  You can find Martha Stewart paints at Michael's.

here's what the stenciled fabric looks like once it's dry

Let the paint set for 24 hours or more then heat set the design with a press cloth soaked in white vinegar.  Make sure to use an iron for craft projects only and you may actually have to replace the lining for your ironing board.  Vinegar is really coercive!

Step 5: layer your fabric and begin to stitch.  I'm not going to get into it here but Ms. Chanin has an entire philosophy about sewing from how to thread your needle to how to make your knots!  She talks about it in her book or you can go to Creativebug. com and download her instructional video for a small fee.  It is worth it!  Once you've made your design decisions (applique, beading, embroidery, etc...)  here's what it might start to look like.

The images above are of the first panel to the four paneled fitted long dress.  I'm almost done with the first and I have three more to go.  Boy is it a lot of work but I can't tell you how much fun it is!!!!

Till next time!

Diamonds are Forever- Part 3

Good morning everyone!

June is well under way and we've been dealing with major changes here at Hodgepodge!  As I'm sure you all know by now my good friend and co-author, Anne, moved to Chicago.  I miss her terribly not only because we had such great conversations, but it was nice to have someone of her talent to discuss designing issues and brainstorm on new ideas.  Although we will continue with the blog and her move will open the door to a broader geographic range, I still miss her and Lexington won't be the same for me without her...  The other major change that has occurred hits a little closer to home.  After many months of searching I finally found a job!  It took me almost a year of active searching to find it but I did it and now I must do as many working mothers do and juggle all the balls I have in the air like a well oiled machine.  What it means for the blog is I have less time to devote to my love of sewing; however, I will try my hardest to squeeze it in whenever and as much as possible!

Case in point...  The Diamonds are Forever quilt top is put together at last!!!!  Here is the final result:

The colors are a little on the golden side but I'm sure you get the picture!  This quilt was pretty easy to put together and should be pretty easy to reproduce.  Since first designing Diamonds I have since noticed several quilts of the same design.  When examining their construction many were ridged about the layout of the strips, sometimes even requiring various strip widths because they try to reproduce exact shapes.  I wanted my quilt to be freer than that.  I wanted people to achieve similar results without the headache of having to do absolutely everything the same way I did.  It was a fine balance and I don't know if I achieved everything I wanted but I am happy with the flexibility of the pattern which was very important to me.  The whole purpose of the pattern was to create "wonky" diamond shapes but "how wonky" those diamonds are are up to the quilter.

As for the border, I cannot take credit for the idea.  Anne came up with the genius design to extend the diamond pattern all the way to the edges.  I think it really set the quilt apart from other versions, don't you?  Here's a quick look at how the border came together...

These were the foundation squares which made up the diamonds and the border.  Each large square measured approximately 6 1/2 inches, while the smaller squares were 3 1/2 inches.

Once I finished sewing my strips to the foundation blocks I laid out each block to make sure the pattern and color design worked.  I was particularly happy with this corner piece!

Once sewn together two small squares should fit within one of the larger squares and all the seams should line up exactly.  In order to achieve this each block should be "squared up" to measure 6 1/2 and 3 1/2 inches.  Otherwise the seams won't line up properly.  The picture to the right is of a corner block and required border pieces on two sides of the large diamond block.  

 Here are a couple of close-ups showing how the seams and blocks lined up...

The next steps are to construct the backing, add the batting, quilt the whole thing, and finally add the binding.  It's a good thing I love to sew!

The Sacred Space of Cathedrals is... Family

Good afternoon everyone!  This spring certainly has been a busy one in the Dixon-DeRouchey household.  We've had more family functions in the last two months than we've had throughout the entire year!  It's good to reconnect with one's family because it's grounding.  It takes you back to childhood and forces you to contemplate those events which shaped your life.  Sometimes they are good memories and sometimes not but whatever they are, they are a part of one's continuing story.  I would rather hear about the "good, bad, and ugly" of my family than be left in the dark because it is the mapping of the path we've tread as a family and I'm very proud of that.  It is especially important for me because as an African American the path is so often next to impossible to trace, up to a point, due to the legacy of Slavery.  When I was a child my father always stressed the importance of history as a way to build one's self-esteem and I have every intention of doing that for my son.  He may not have the luxury of growing up surrounded by immediate or extended family but he will know them.

My family (like most I'm sure) is a "hodgepodge" of different types of people with varying levels of skills that seems to run the gambit!  We have educators, architects, chefs, civil servants, entrepreneurs, performance artists, artists, and even published writers.  My aunt Miki is one of those writers who recently published a photo essay book called Journey to the Woman I've Come to Love.

 The book focuses on women from all walks-of-life and includes the famous and not so famous.  My aunt interviewed and photographed the individuals herself and she asked each woman one question, "at what point did you fall in love with yourself?"  Fascinating in the scope of their own self-awareness, many of the subject's answers were provocative and thought provoking!

My aunt Miki and I on my wedding day.

With the success of her first book well on the way my aunt called me recently.  She asked if I would be willing to create a piece for the cover of her next book!  Of course I took the challenge because not only did I feel privileged to be asked such a task, it was important for me as a budding designer, and it would give me an opportunity to convey my beliefs about "family" as a continuation of an ongoing story through my art!  

Aunt Miki wanted the piece to evoke tradition and the bond between mothers and daughters.  She also wanted it to be a wall hanging and something that could possibly be translated into different things like pins.  As she was talking to me the gears in the back of my mind were turning...  Anne and I for some time now have wanted to attempt making Cathedral Windows in our own individual styles; and now here was my chance!  If you're not familiar with the cathedral window block here's what it looks like:

I snagged this example during a google search and it originally appeared on flickr.  To view a tutorial on how to make cathedral windows checkout the blog Hyena in Petticoats.  It's very informative and the pictures are great!

The block is made through a series of folds with the background fabric as a solid color (typically white) and the diamond accented with a patterned fabric.  The above example is a modern twist with the use of the gray coloring as the background.  It's funny because I actually found this picture after I had picked out my fabrics for my piece.  I too decided to lean more towards the current trend by using grays as my neutrals but I will take it a step further.  Instead of using a solid color as my background fabric I will use a patterned fabric and a more subtle patterned fabric for the diamonds!

It's amazing what you can find these days in fabric!  I found this floral print at Walmart for less than $6 a yard!  Don't snub your nose at that!!!!

This is a close-up of the diamond fabric.  It's a wonderful compliment to the floral fabric because the individual dots have many of the same tones.  It's also wonderful because it's subtle enough that it will not compete with the the next step I hope to implement!

In this close-up you can see the various shades of gray throughout the fabric.

Once I knew the block design and the color choices, I needed something that would convey mothers and daughters.  That's when it hit me...  Why not incorporate a little embroidery?!!!!  I decided I would trace a few of the pictures my aunt took of her subjects, embroider them, and make them the diamond centers.  

This is a picture of my mother and I on my wedding day which was taken by my aunt Miki...

And this is the tracing of that picture.

So far I've traced one picture and once I get my measurements just right I will begin constructing the blocks.  Stay tune for further developments on this piece in progress!

Happy crafting everyone!!!!!