Recipe for an Alabama Chanin Dress

Good Morning Everyone!

It's great to be back!  Hope you had a wonderful 4th of July and that all your summer days have been filled with warmth, happiness, and very sunny days!  I've been pretty busy with all those events that can take up one's time during the summer time... family functions, gatherings with friends, and preoccupying restless children; however, I have made time for my favorite occupation... SEWING!  So although I was away from the blog for a time I was still working away.

My latest project is truly a labor of love.  I recently discovered the couture clothing and DIY movement that is Alabama Chanin.  If you've never heard of the company it was started by costume designer Natalie Chanin, over ten years ago, based on sustainable principles.  From the materials and construction techniques to the employees, all have a fundamental purpose in creating endurance.  Ms. Chanin houses her company in a defunct t-shirt factory in Alabama and contracts local quilting artisans who used to work in the t-shirt industry.  To create one of her pieces it might take an employee eight weeks to complete because the entire outfit is constructed by hand!!!!  Not only does she sell ready made clothing, but she also encourages crafters to make their own clothing based on her designs.  Let me tell you,  it's a MUCH cheaper alternative than actually buying her clothing when one of her pieces can cost over $5, 000!!!!  I don't know about you but I'll take doing it myself any day...

After reading Ms. Chanin's book Alabama Studio Sewing + Design: A Guide to Hand-Sewing an Alabama Chanin Wardrobe, I decided to attempt the long fitted dress.  Seen in the picture below this is actually an example of how the couture line layers individual pieces to achieve an absolutely sumptuous  baroque look.

I am taking a less ambitious route but as you can see Alabama is a perfect marriage between sewing clothing and quilting.  How could I possibly pass this opportunity up?

In order to undertake such a project you must follow several steps and take your time, especially if you wish to do any applique or reverse applique.

Step 1: use 100% cotton jersey fabric.  Alabama Chanin uses 100% organic cotton jersey that you can purchase from their website.  I used Mood Fabrics.  Not only did they have a very large selection but their prices are very reasonable.

Step 2: use Coats and Clarks Craft & Button hand-sewing thread.  It comes in limited colors and although you can get it from Alabama you can also get it at Joanne Fabrics or Michael's for $1.99 per spool.

Step 3: gather your stenciling materials.  This is where things get tricky!  In order to do any applique, reverse applique, or embroidery you have to transfer your design onto your fabric and the only way to really do that is to create a really big stencil.  Alabama recommends making the stencil out of pennant felt (which is a stiff somewhat thick felt).  I suggest you spend the money and get the felt from Alabama.  It's about $17 yd and it will save you the headache of trying to find it elsewhere, which is pretty hard to do.  This is the stencil I created...

As you can see it is well used!  It may not look like it but this stencil is very large.  Almost the length of a full length dress.  In order to create this I downloaded a free pattern from Alabama (they are available on the website and in the book) and had it printed full size at a printing shop.  I used a spay adhesive to attach the pattern to the felt and then I began to cut away using a craft knife.  All I'll say is... it takes a minute...

Step 4: use fabric paint to transfer the pattern onto fabric.  Alabama suggests airbrushing or a squirt bottle.  I used Martha Stewart and next time I'm going to use a squirt bottle!  Martha is cute but completely impractical.  

Pictured above is Martha's spray paint kit.  It turns any one of her paints into spray paint.  Great idea but when the canister runs out there's no way to replace just the canister.  You have to buy the whole kit all over again!  Absolutely stupid!  However, I will say I like her range of colors and will continue to use them with a squirt bottle.  You can find Martha Stewart paints at Michael's.

here's what the stenciled fabric looks like once it's dry

Let the paint set for 24 hours or more then heat set the design with a press cloth soaked in white vinegar.  Make sure to use an iron for craft projects only and you may actually have to replace the lining for your ironing board.  Vinegar is really coercive!

Step 5: layer your fabric and begin to stitch.  I'm not going to get into it here but Ms. Chanin has an entire philosophy about sewing from how to thread your needle to how to make your knots!  She talks about it in her book or you can go to Creativebug. com and download her instructional video for a small fee.  It is worth it!  Once you've made your design decisions (applique, beading, embroidery, etc...)  here's what it might start to look like.

The images above are of the first panel to the four paneled fitted long dress.  I'm almost done with the first and I have three more to go.  Boy is it a lot of work but I can't tell you how much fun it is!!!!

Till next time!